An elongated shape with pointed ends inspired by the fetching smile of the “Marquise de Pompadour” and commissioned by the sun king, France’s Louis XIV, who wanted a diamond to match the shape of the mouth when smiling. It is gorgeous when used as a solitaire or when enhanced by smaller diamonds. Because marquise diamonds are long and narrow, they can also create the illusion of greater size. Carat for carat, the marquise diamond has one of the largest crown surface areas of any diamond shape, making it a great choice when trying to maximize the perceived size of a diamond. Like the oval diamond, the elongated shape of the marquise diamond can make the finger of the wearer appear longer and slimmer.
Marquise diamonds possess some degree of bow tie, varying from near invisible to sever. Only upon visual inspection will you see the “bow tie” but not by reviewing the diamond certificate. Personal preference should dictate how narrow or “fat” a marquise diamond should be, although a length to width ration of 1.75-2.15 is considered the classic marquise cut.
Symmetry is very important. The two end points should align with each other, and right and left sides should form a near mirror image. Even a slight misalignment in the points can result in an “off Kilter look” in the final setting. Excellent or very good symmetry at the least is highly recommended.
It should always be set with prongs to protect the two points (the most likely location for the marquise diamond to be chipped). As these points of the marquise diamond were once nearest the outer edge of the rough stone, flaws such as natural inclusions, extra facets and other inclusions may be located here. Since the points are covered by prongs, the flaws will be invisible once the diamond is set.
Evaluating colour in a marquise cut diamond is subjective.